Guy Smalley illustration • smmalleyart.com
The beard. Symbol of wisdom and masculinity to some. For others, an indicator of menace and neglect. Loved and loathed. Derided and defended. Our feelings about a full face of whiskers are quite polarized.
I’ve worn a full beard for nearly three years, and had a goatee for many years prior. I am definitely a pogonophile (lover of beards), and I’m glad more and more men are “trying them on.” As with tattoos, this is creating greater acceptance both in and out of the workplace. The popularity of the beard has waxed and waned throughout history, but currently the whiskered face is back in style. It seems that beards are no longer just for barbarians, philosophers, and lumberjacks.
In 2015, GQ polled 500 barbers and hairstylists across the country and determined that about 35 percent of American men have beards. Virginia is the hairiest state with over 50 percent of men sporting beards. Interestingly, North Carolina comes in third for mustachioed men at 42 percent. Worldwide, about 55 percent of men have some type of facial hair. A key part of this popularity and acceptance is having a well-groomed, regularly maintained beard. Fortunately for us bewhiskered brethren, beard-grooming companies have become plentiful. These businesses (western North Carolina has quite a few), usually small enterprises dedicated to creating all-natural products focused on quality rather than quantity, create beard-care items such as oils, balms, and soaps.
I use these products regularly. I also make them, so I’ve learned much about how they help beards look and feel great. Oils nourish and moisturize, softening the hair and keeping the skin underneath flake free. Seriously, no one wants face dandruff salting their T-bone. These beard oils can be formulated with essential oils that have antibacterial and antiseptic properties, and they have unique scents that act as a natural cologne. Balms do all of this, plus they contain things like butters and waxes that help tame and style the beard. Natural soaps gently clean the hair without stripping its natural oils or drying the skin.
You may be thinking, so what? This is nothing more than a fad, that real men need only blood, sweat, and axle grease to care for their whiskers. While there’s nothing wrong with sweat (probably want to skip the blood) and greased axles are the best axles, beard grooming is no fad. In fact, it has a long history that began in the ancient world.
The upper-class of Ancient Mesopotamia (also the birthplace of soap, but that’s another article) took great pride in their beards. Although evidence is scarce, it’s believed they used primitive curling irons to put waves and curls in their beards. They also adorned them with ribbons and beads, dyed them, and possibly used sesame oil on them. Early Greeks considered beards a sign of wisdom and manhood, and Greece is where barbering came of age. They perfumed their hair with spices and olive oil, and I’m assuming they’d apply it to their beards as well. Fast-forward to Victorian England and we have Macassar Oil, a hair treatment that was also marketed for beard use, making it a precursor to our modern beard oil. This is where we get the word “antimacassar,” which is a covering placed on the backs of chairs to keep the oil from staining furniture.
As I mentioned before, views on beards are divided. Men and women both believe a hirsute face can make one seem wise, mature, and masculine, however, they can also be viewed as aggressive, dominant, and intimidating. But are they attractive? It depends. In 2016, the University of Queensland in Australia conducted a study to find out. They surveyed more than 8,000 women and found that overall, they prefer men with heavy stubble to those with full beards or a shaved face. However, when it comes to long term relationships, women prefer men with full beards, which may have something to do with dominance and the ability to provide that has carried over from our club-wielding, saber-tooth killing prehistory. I am bearded. Hear me roar!
Beards are definitely trending now, but as with any trend, it will level off and those who wore a beard for the novelty of it, will return to their clean-shaven faces. Those who keep their whiskers and those who’ve had them for decades have made a lifestyle choice. Their beards just “fit” them and many would feel incomplete without them. Beards have adorned the faces of men since we were painting on cave walls and learning about the magic of fire. Thankfully, however, with the prevalence and effectiveness of beard soaps, balms, and oils, our man manes no longer need look like we live in a cave. If you have or are growing a beard, give these products a try. I think you’ll find they’re much better than sweat and axle grease.