Harper's Ferry, West Virginia
Over the years, we’ve journeyed many times to Harpers Ferry, Jefferson County, West Virginia for a variety of indoor, outdoor, and historical pursuits. Here are some of the highlights of our most recent sojourn in this Eastern Panhandle domain.
Harper's Ferry, West Virginia
Tori Torine, barista at Battle Grounds Bakery and Coffee, places bread dough in the oven. Bruce and Elaine Ingram photo
Lunch at Battle Grounds Bakery and Coffee
We arrived in Harpers Ferry just in time for lunch at Battle Grounds Bakery and Coffee. There we met owner Tabatha Chesley.
“I grew up both in this area and in the restaurant business and love both of them,” she says. “My mom ran a restaurant, and that’s what I wanted to do. Ours is the type of place that people hiking the Appalachian Trail, biking the C&O Canal, or fishing, floating, or tubing the Potomac feel comfortable coming to and getting a grab and go meal. But so do people visiting the area’s historic sights and wanting a sit-down meal or to eat on our outdoor patio.”
Chesley says her establishment bakes all its bread varieties which helps explain why the lunch sandwiches are so popular. Among the most requested ones are the Mountain Top with turkey, bacon, avocado, cheddar, lettuce, mayo, and tomato; the BYO Veggie Wrap, and the Shenandoah with ham, provolone, raspberry preserves, red onion, and spinach.
For my entree, I selected the Battle Grounds Chicken Salad with lettuce, mayo, and tomato while Elaine chose the Appalachian with avocado, cucumber, hummus, spinach, Swiss, and tomato. In short, our meals were so superb that we understood why West Virginia Living Magazine awarded Battle Grounds the first runner up position in the publication’s Best of West Virginia sandwich competition. Favorite breakfast menu items include the BLT Breakfast Sandwich with avocado, egg, cheese, and spinach, plus the wide variety of scones and muffins.
Then it was time to check in at the base for our sojourn.
Harper's Ferry, West Virginia
The Light Horse Inn today, and in the late 1700s as well, is a must visit in Harpers Ferry. Jonathan Austin photo
Light Hor
One of Jefferson’s jewels is the historic Light Horse Inn, constructed circa 1770s and named after Light Horse Harry Lee, an officer in the Continental Army and father of Robert E. Lee. General Manager Angela McCallister says she embraces the history of an area that was, at the time the inn was built, a stepping off point for those going westward.
“George Washington’s brother Charles lived in this area, and the Light Horse was built as an inn and a stagecoach stop and was a social hub during that era,” she says. “In the early 1800s as a tavern, people would come here for a meal, a pint of ale, and learn of and discuss the news of the world.
“Robert E. Lee’s father Henry Lee purchased the property as part of his large investment in land holdings in the area. The builders were the Keyes family. The inn was lovingly restored by Carrie and Chad Gauthier. Everywhere you look, they put in the effort to save some part of history for future generations.”
Today, the Light Horse remains a must-stop in Harpers Ferry. Visitors can experience such originals as the hardwood floors, the kitchen’s brick fireplace, the former kitchen’s bread maker in the hearth, and the outside’s stonewalls. Unsurprisingly, the breakfasts are a real treat with eggs benedict and a variety of quiches and egg casseroles in the rotation.
The first morning we were there, chef and innkeeper Megan Spencer had already set the table with carafes of water and orange juice as well as a mini-muffin. Then she delivered a plate with a large square of veggie egg frittata, hash browns, sausage links, and an English muffin half, with strawberries and melon slices. The second morning’s breakfast was just as impressive with poached eggs with Hollandaise sauce, fried potatoes, yogurt with fruit, English muffin, and pound cake with blueberries dusted with sugar.
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Harper's Ferry, West Virginia
Elaine and Bruce Ingram dining at Snallygaster’s Café and Wine Bar. Jonathan Austin photo
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Harper's Ferry, West Virginia
Chef Israel Liveria of Snallygasters with one of his favorite creations: Chipotle Shrimp Linguini. Bruce and Elaine Ingram photo
Snallygaster’s Café and Wine Bar
First…what indeed is a snallygaster?
“A snallygaster is a mythical beast, part bird, part dragon and a creation of German and Scots-Irish settlers and Appalachian folklore,” says owner Carrie Gauthier. “Its apparent purpose was to keep misbehaving children and lazy workers in line. At Snallygaster’s, we’ve given the monster a friendlier appearance as our logo.”
Gauthier relates that her restaurant’s building originally served as a country general store and she has tried to preserve that appearance. The café specializes in healthy, locally sourced foods some of which have been foraged and much of which are traditional Appalachian favorites, all served in a warm and inviting atmosphere.
“Our food is simple, fresh, flavorful, and unpretentious,” she said. “My favorite dish is our pork and risotto. It’s a simple combination of some very flavorful ingredients.”
Jonathan Austin, editor of this magazine, joined us for dinner our first night in town. We started with two appetizers: Pan-Seared Brussel Sprouts with bacon, cashews, mint, and balsamic reduction, and a Baked Bri Platter with fruits, nuts, and toast points. Before the main course, I was able to talk with Israel Liveria, 22-year-old head chef as he prepared Elaine’s meal: Chipotle Shrimp Linguini.
“It’s long been a passion of mine to merge my Mexican heritage with French and Italian cuisine,” he says. “My culinary journey started as a high school student in Jefferson County where I took a workplace course that taught us how a restaurant operates.”
Liveria’s enthusiasm for his vocation was amazing as I watched him create my wife’s meal. Later, Elaine said the shrimp texture was perfect and the chipotle cream sauce clung appetizingly to the peppers, onion, and pasta. Jonathan was similarly enthusiastic about his Sausage Greens and Beans, an Appalachian-inspired dish. My meal, Homemade Lamb Meatballs with spring mix, feta, tzatziki, and balsamic dressing, was delightful.
Day Two: Lunch at Coach House Grill N’ Bar
Folks dining at the Coach House Grill N’ Bar will likely enjoy the wide variety of entrees, plus the outdoor patio dining atmosphere if the weather cooperates. Another attraction is the wide variety of beers, many originating in the Mountain State. Joette Breeden, manager of the restaurant, recommends these entrees.
“One of our most popular meals is the Spinach and Cranberries Salad, topped with pecans, red onions, and blue cheese crumbles, served with raspberry vinaigrette,” she says. “Other favorites include our pasta dishes served with spicy marinara sauce and garlic bread sticks. We’re also known for our daily dinner specials.”
Bruce fished the Potomac on day two of our stay, so I selected the recommended spinach salad. The onions atop the spinach along the tangy feta, crunchy walnuts and sweet dried cranberries combined well with raspberry vinaigrette dressing.
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Harper's Ferry, West Virginia
The Potomac River is one of the region’s premier rivers.
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Harper's Ferry, West Virginia
Dinner at the Rabbit Hole Gastropub
One of the most spectacular meal settings we’ve ever experienced came at the Rabbit Hole in Harpers Ferry.
“From our deck, diners can view the confluence of the Shenandoah and Potomac,” says general manager John Pearrell. “Look upward, and they can observe people hiking Maryland Heights. And adding to the unique setting, the Amtrak train tracks go right by us.
“We offer an upscale bar food type atmosphere, basically, pub food done right. I would say that our Chef’s Charcuterie Board and our various burgers are our most popular entrees. We also offer 14 different beers on tap and over 100 more for sale, many of which are West Virginia based brews.”
Based on Pearrell’s recommendation, we dined on Rabbit Hole’s deck and the vistas are as spectacular as advertised. So were our entrees: the Canal Chicken Sandwich topped with Swiss cheese and avocado smash and the vegetarian Crabless Crabcake Sandwich with artichokes and Cajun aioli.
Harper's Ferry, West Virginia
Come to the Jefferson County Museum and you can view the wagon that took John Brown to his execution. Courtesy of the Jefferson County Museum
Jefferson County Museum
As director of the Jefferson County Museum, Lori Wysong is charged with watching over more than 9,000 artifacts.
“We have items predating the Colonial Era and the Revolutionary War, many from the Civil War, on up through World Wars I and II to the present,” she said. “We also feature archival, genealogical, and photography collections. We have items not relating to wars but to everyday life in the county, as well.
“Some of our more famous items include a letter written by George Washington after hearing the news of his brother Charles’ death, the wagon that took John Brown to his execution, and the uniform of West Virginian Frank Buckles, the last surviving WW I veteran in the United States, who died at 110 in 2011.”
Harper's Ferry, West Virginia
Cathy Baldau says the bookstore there has books found nowhere else. Bruce and Elaine Ingram photos
Harpers Ferry Bookshop
Emily Timberlake, the Harpers Ferry Bookshop operations manager, explains why this part of the Harpers Ferry Park Association is a must stop.
“Our bookshop offers a wide selection of academic resource books on the Civil War, including some of the newest scholarship,” she says. “We also have educational materials available for kids on the Revolutionary and Civil Wars, and the Civil Rights movement. Of course, there are materials for adults on all these topics as well as on the C&O Canal and the Appalachian Trail.”
Timberlake adds that another major draw is the Harpers Ferry National Historical Park’s tour offerings which feature 14 guides who have undergone extensive training on the area’s history. The tours last approximately 2 ½ hours and cover such topics as the Bolivar Heights Battlefield, John Brown’s Raid, the Battle of Harpers Ferry, and such historical figures as George Washington, Stonewall Jackson, Frederick Douglas, and W.E.B. Du Bois.
Cathy Baldau, executive director of the Harpers Ferry Park Association, further explained the organization’ mission.
“Because we are the nonprofit partner of Harpers Ferry National Historical Park, we support the park’s interpretive and educational programs, but we also provide memories for the visitors. We do our own publications all in-house and specific to Harpers Ferry. These are not available anywhere else. Even the apparel here is unique.”
Outdoor Possibilities
For folks visiting Jefferson County, the Upper Potomac is a major outdoor destination as is the C&O Canal which borders it on river left. Fritz Schneider, director of Communications for the Potomac Riverkeeper Network, agrees.
“The C&O Canal is a fabulous location for recreation: hiking, biking, even horseback riding,” he says. “The towpath is well-maintained and not at all strenuous to navigate. The scenery is unsurpassed in all seasons and weather conditions.”
I’ve hiked, camped, and fished along the C&O Canal, and all these activities are outstanding ways to experience this historic pathway. Because of the canal, I believe the Potomac should hold the title as the best river to camp out on in our region.
The upper river is also one of the premier fishing destinations in the region. I spent two days floating the river, the first with guide Brian Kelly of White Fly Outfitters, the second with guide John Lipetz of Fish and Explore and friend Jamie Gold of Sterling, Virginia. We caught smallmouths up to 18 inches, viewed bald eagles, heard great blue herons raising young in a rookery, and floated past some of the most fetching vistas in the region.
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Harper's Ferry, West Virginia
Jen Lowe, a clerk at Tenfold, displays an ornate basket crafted in Ghana. No two baskets look the same. Bruce and Elaine Ingram photo
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Harper's Ferry, West Virginia
Ahmae Fahim-Sabar owns Blue Point Jewelry and markets handmade jewelry. The shop is especially known for its lapis lazuli. Bruce and Elaine Ingram photos
Downtown Harpers Ferry
Downtown Harpers Ferry lies less than .8 of a mile from the Light Horse Inn, so we spent time visiting several of the shops. One of the most impressive establishments is Tenfold, which specializes in handmade, fair trade, eco-friendly items.
“Owner Martha Ehlman is very interested in eco-conservation, and is a very good soul,” says Jen Lowe, clerk. “You can feel those positive vibes when you come here.”
For folks unaware of what fair trade is, the concept means that someone who makes a product should earn a fair living, no child labor is involved, and good working conditions exist. Items may or may not cost a little more, but, regardless, the customers can experience pride in their purchases.
Lowe added that some of Tenfolds’ interesting items are ornate baskets crafted in Ghana and hats made in Mexico from palm fiber. Also of note are napkins, dish towels and cloths repurposed from recycled saris.
“Tenfold is a fully dedicated to fair trade and is a member of the Fair Trade Federation,” Ehlman said. “I am a member so that I can assure our customers that the people we buy our goods from are receiving the benefits of the purchase. When people come here and learn what John Brown stood for and was willing to die for, then that makes Harpers Ferry the perfect place to learn about this issue.”
Another business that intrigued us was The Vintage Lady. Manager Crystal Grimsley tries to focus on goods made in the Mountain State.
“Every person who works here makes something creative for this shop,” she says. “For example, one of the things I create is brass jewelry of birds and trees, as well as, for example, repurposing vintage jewelry into earrings.
“Cindi Dunn owns our shop and she has a passion for photography, so she has created magnets and note cards that have area themes. Alisa Gladstone’s expertise is pottery, so she makes a variety of trinket dishes, and ornaments.”
Ahmae Fahim-Sabar owns Blue Point Jewelry and markets handmade jewelry featuring precious and semi-precious stones.
“Ever since arriving from Afghanistan in 2014, I have had my own shop, featuring the work of a number of different jewelry artists. I brought lapis lazuli with me when I came. Afghanistan is one of the two leading sources of lapis lazuli which I have here in bracelets, earrings, and necklaces. Crystals and gemstones are found in veins that run like ribbons in the mountains. They are products of the earth which fits into Harpers Ferry exactly.”
And, hopefully, Harpers Ferry and Jefferson County will fit into your schedule this year.